Retrofits are a recent success story in lighting.
On paper, everyone loves the idea:
- keep the fixture
- upgrade the light source
- save power
- stop getting service calls every time something flickers
But in real life, a lot of upgrades still get done the hard way. Full fixture swaps. Ceiling tiles disturbed. Tenants annoyed.
The truth is: there are a bunch of modern retrofit products designed specifically to make upgrades fast, clean, and predictable—and a surprising number of electricians, maintenance teams, and property managers either haven’t seen them yet or don’t realize how much easier they’ve made things.
So this month’s theory article is basically a guided tour of “retrofit tools for the job.”
What gets retrofitted the most?
From what we see day-to-day, the most common retrofit situations are:
- Fluorescent fixtures (troffers, strips, wraps — still everywhere)
- Ceiling-mount lights in hallways/closets/stairwells (often ugly, often dim, always “still technically working”)
- Old recessed cans (halogen or incandescent era)
- Commercial downlights (classic “PL/CFL pot light” setups)
- HID fixtures (wall packs, shoeboxes, post tops) — big power draw, frequent lamp/ballast issues
Let’s go through the best retrofit solutions for each.
1) Fluorescent fixtures: tubes are only the beginning now
The “tube” retrofit — Type A, Type B, and A/B
If you’ve touched fluorescent upgrades in the last few years, you’ve probably heard Type A and Type B.
- Type A: uses the existing ballast
- Pros: quick install, minimal rewiring
- Cons: ballasts fail, compatibility matters, long-term reliability depends on old gear
- Type B: ballast bypass (direct-wire)
- Pros: removes the ballast failure point, usually better reliability
- Cons: requires rewiring; do it cleanly and label it properly for future service work
- Type A/B (hybrid): can operate on ballast or direct wire
- Pros: flexible for mixed sites and phased upgrades
- Cons: more expensive; you still want a plan so every fixture doesn’t become “unique”
Selectable tech that makes stocking easier
Two modern features are worth calling out because they’re not just “nice”—they’re what makes upgrades smoother on real sites:
- Wattage Selectable: one lamp covers multiple lumen outputs
- CCT Selectable: one lamp covers multiple color temperatures (warm → cool/daylight)
That’s huge for contractors and maintenance teams: fewer SKUs, fewer return trips, less “we ordered the wrong one.”
An example that surprises people: the “8-foot tube” that ships in two pieces
A lot of older commercial spaces still run 8' fluorescents. The pain point is always the same: long lamps are awkward, fragile, and annoying.
Now there are 8' retrofits that ship as 2 × 4' sections and assemble on site,and even come with multiple end options (single pin, R17d). It’s the same end goal—upgrade an 8-foot fixture—but the logistics are way easier.
Bottom line for tube retrofits:
If you want the most reliable upgrade with the least future headaches, Type B is often the long-game winner—but Type A and A/B absolutely have their place depending on the building, the time-frame, and who’s maintaining it later.
2) Troffers, strips, wraps: magnetic retrofit kits are the latest and greatest
Most people know about tubes. Fewer people know about retrofit kits that turn the inside of the fixture into a modern LED system without replacing the whole housing.
Magnetic troffer retrofit kits (EiKO MRK)
These kits are designed to mount directly inside common fixtures using powerful magnets, with:
- LED strips + driver + connectors included
- no above-ceiling access required
- fast install with minimal disruption
Some include:
- Power select (multiple wattage settings)
- Color select (multiple CCT settings like 3500K/4000K/5000K)
- 0–10V dimming
- DLC listings for rebate-friendly projects
This is the kind of retrofit that makes property managers happy because it’s quick and clean, and makes electricians happy because it’s repeatable - with fewer surprises.
When a magnetic kit beats tubes:
- you want better light distribution than a “tube in an old reflector” look
- you want a more uniform, modern appearance
- you want a consistent system for multiple fixtures
- you’re doing a bigger commercial upgrade and labor time matters
- housing and lenses are in good shape
3) Ceiling-mount fixtures: retrofit “light engines” are the unsung heroes
A ton of buildings (and houses) have ceiling-mount fixtures that are:
- dated
- dim
- flickery
- full of random lamp types
- still installed solidly and technically functional
Round and square LED light engines (retrofit disks/panels)
These are retrofit modules designed to convert old ceiling-mount fixtures—incandescent or fluorescent style—into a clean LED setup.
They’re especially good for:
- hallways and stairwells
- closets and utility rooms
- apartment common areas
- rental turnovers
- anywhere you want a clean look without replacing the entire base
And the newer ones often include:
- CCT selectable (so you’re not locked into “hospital white” forever)
- high CRI options (so the space looks normal and not washed out)
- dimming support (depending on model)
When do you choose a light engine retrofit?
When the fixture base is fine, but everything inside it belongs in a museum.
4) Recessed “cans” and older pot lights: retrofit trims are often the simplest upgrade
Older recessed housings (especially halogen-era) are everywhere. And most people assume the only “proper” fix is: replace the entire recessed housing.
But for many situations, retrofit LED trims exist specifically to drop into existing cans. That can mean:
- faster upgrades
- cleaner look
- no ceiling damage
- predictable results
- longer life
The key is compatibility:
Not all cans are equal, and not all retrofits fit everything. But when it’s the right match, it’s one of the cleanest upgrades you can do.
5) PL / CFL downlights: a classic commercial pain point
This is one of the most common “commercial pot light” setups: older PL-style lamps, CFL downlights, and weird socket configurations that slowly become impossible to service.
Modern retrofit options exist for these too, usually as a type A/B LED bul
b, and the big advantage is:
- fewer call-backs
- better light quality
- often colour selectable
- longer run time
If there’s one category that silently drives building managers nuts over time, it’s this one.
6) HID fixtures: corn cob retrofits keep the housing and cut the power
Wall packs, shoebox fixtures, post tops — there are tons of older HID fixtures still in service because replacing the whole fixture can be costly.
Corn cob LED retrofits (E26/E39)
These are made to replace HID lamps with a high-output LED lamp that throws light in a broad pattern (often 360°), and many models include:
- wide voltage ranges (helpful in commercial)
- adjustable wattage
- adjustable colour
The key advice here: always confirm physical clearance and heat considerations. Some housings are tighter than they look.
Honourable Mentions: common retrofits we see all the time (but can’t fully unpack here)
Emergency / Exit lighting upgrades
This is quietly one of the most common retrofit categories because it’s code-driven and maintenance-heavy. LED exit sign retrofit lights, upgraded emergency heads, swapping halogen lights for LEDs and battery/emergency solutions can reduce service calls and keep buildings compliant without full replacements. Also swapping out halogen to LED lights can increase light volume at 1/4 of the draw - meaning the system could run brighter for longer on the same battery.
The “CFL oddballs” nobody wants to keep sourcing
This is the stuff that becomes a scavenger hunt: 2D CFL, circline (T9), and the many flavors of PL lamps (PL-L / PL-C / PL-T). These are exactly the lamps that become “backordered forever,” and they’re often great candidates for modern retrofit solutions.
Retrofit vs replace: the rule that prevents regret
Retrofit when:
- the housing is solid
- you want speed and minimal disruption
- the upgrade will be repeatable across many fixtures
Replace when:
- the fixture is corroded/damaged
- the optics are bad and will always look bad
- the housing is unsafe or a maintenance nightmare
- you want a totally different distribution/appearance
Sometimes it’s obvious. Sometimes it’s a 30-second conversation and a photo.
The fastest way to choose a retrofit (without turning it into a project)
Tell us three things:
- what the fixture is (troffer, strip, ceiling mount, can, wall pack, etc.)
- what’s currently in it (tube type, PL/CFL, HID, halogen, etc.)
- what the supply voltage is.
We’ll point you at the easiest, cleanest retrofit option that keeps the building running and keeps you out of the ceiling.
Because nobody wakes up excited to do ceiling work twice.
Send us any retrofit questions you have HERE