Lighting Smarter: How to Upgrade Your Tubes Without Guesswork

Understanding LED Tube Lighting

History of The Fluorescent Tube

Fluorescent lighting has illuminated commercial, institutional, and industrial spaces for nearly a century. First introduced at the 1939 New York World’s Fair, these lamps gained popularity due to their efficiency and long lifespan when compared to traditional incandescent bulbs. By the 1950s, T12 tubes—larger diameter lamps paired with magnetic ballasts—had become the standard in offices, schools, factories, and public infrastructure across North America.

The 1980s and 1990s brought a shift toward higher efficiency and performance. T8 tubes and electronic ballasts began replacing older T12 systems, offering improved energy consumption, better light quality, and quieter operation. Around the same time, compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) became popular in homes, providing energy savings in a familiar screw-in form.

By the 2010s, LED lighting had reached commercial viability. LED tubes emerged as a longer-lasting, more efficient alternative to fluorescents, with many options available that work with existing fixtures—either by using the existing ballast (Type A) or bypassing it (Type B). Today, LEDs are the preferred choice in many settings, but fluorescent lighting still holds its place in facilities with functional systems or where upgrading isn’t immediately practical.

At Buchanan Lighting, we continue to support both paths. We stock a wide range of fluorescent tubes, magnetic and electronic ballasts, and LED tube replacements to help you transition on your terms.

Types of LED Tubes Explained

Not all LED tubes are created equal. Your best option depends on your fixture, wiring, and goals for maintenance and energy savings. Here are the four main types:

!!Caution!! Most type A + Hybrid tubes require an instant start electronic ballast and will not function on old F40T12 ballast.

 

Type A — Ballast-Compatible (Plug-and-Play)

These tubes work with your existing fluorescent ballast. Simply remove the old tube and install the new one—no rewiring required.

·         Best For: Quick upgrades in buildings with reliable ballasts

·         Pros: Fastest install, no electrician needed

·         Consider: Relies on ballast condition; tube won’t work if ballast fails

Type B — Ballast-Bypass (Direct Wire)

Type B tubes connect directly to line voltage. The ballast is removed from the system entirely.

·         Best For: Long-term savings, planned retrofits, or new installs

·         Pros: Most efficient; eliminates ballast failure

·         Consider: Requires electrical work; not plug-and-play

Type C — External Driver

These tubes use a separate LED driver, not a ballast. Drivers offer advanced control, like dimming and smart integrations.

·         Best For: New installations or projects needing advanced lighting control

·         Pros: Long lifespan; supports modern controls

·         Consider: Requires installing a driver; more complex setup

Hybrid (Type A/B)

These tubes can be used with a ballast or rewired later to bypass it.

·         Best For: Phased upgrades; facilities unsure about ballast condition

·         Pros: Flexible for current and future use

·         Consider: Slightly higher cost; may still d

epend on ballast early on

Every type has its place. For quick, cost-effective upgrades, Type A is a great solution. For maximum efficiency and reduced future maintenance, Type B is worth considering. And for specialty projects or advanced lighting systems,

 Type C and Hybrid models offer additional benefits.

Cost Over Time: LED vs. Fluorescent

LED tubes may cost more upfront around $10 versus $4.20 for a fluorescent but they shine in the long run. An LED tube lasts up to 50,000 hours and uses just 9.9 watts, compared to 32 watts and a 24,000-hour lifespan for a typical fluorescent. Over time, energy and replacement costs add up. The graph shows cumulative costs over five years for one tube running 12 hours per day. By year two, the LED starts to pull ahead. By year five, the savings are substantial. For high-use environments, the switch to LED pays for itself in both electricity and reduced maintenance.                                                    


When to Use (and Not Use) Each Type

Type A


Use if:

·         You want a fast, easy install

·         Your ballasts are in good shape

·         You're in a space where hiring an electrician is difficult or expensive

Avoid if:

·         Your ballasts are failing or unknown

·         You want maximum long-term efficiency

 

Type B

Use if:

·         You’re ready to remove the ballast

·         You want the most efficient, maintenance-free setup

Avoid if:

·         You can’t or don’t want to do electrical work

·         You’re managing many fixtures and need speed over wiring

 

Type C 

Use if:

·         You want integrated controls or smart building features

·         You're doing a complete lighting system upgrade

Avoid if:

·         You just need a quick swap

·         You’re not using dimming or automation features

 

Hybrid

 

Use if:

·         You want flexibility now and in the future

·         You’re unsure about ballast conditions or plan phased upgrades

Avoid if:

·         You already know you'll rewire everything

·         You want the most cost-efficient tube upfront

 

Making the Switch

Fluorescent lighting has done its job well for decades, but LED tubes now offer a clear path to better efficiency, longer life, and lower costs. The right tube depends on your current setup, your future plans, and your budget. Whether you're doing a full building upgrade, a single fixture swap, or something in between, Buchanan Lighting can help you find the best fit. Bring us a tube, a ballast, or a photo of your fixture—we’ll help you make a smarter lighting decision.

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